Review: River Road, Alexander Valley Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon

“I’m a fan of low alcohol, wines” says Ron Rubin, the vintner behind River Road wines. “I keep the alcohol in check to produce elegant wines that you can enjoy, glass after glass.”

I too am a fan of low alcohol wines. I generally find them to be more food-friendly, more elegant, more accessible and more enjoyable than higher-alcohol wines. But it can be hard to find well made wines with lower alcohol levels.

We still live in the shadows of the Robert Parker days, when his reviews were coveted by winemakers because they sold wine. But Parker had a clear preference for higher alcohol levels and winemakers followed suit to produce wines in that style in hopes of getting a positive review. Plus global warming is accelerating grape ripening in many regions, which results in higher sugar levels that then translate into higher alcohol levels in wine. With these factors in play, I come across a lot of wine with alcohol levels higher than I’d prefer. It’s not uncommon for me to find wines that are 14.5%, 15% or higher.

But there are a growing number of producers (as well as consumers) who gravitate toward lower alcohol levels. They don’t have to be crazy low either, just not crazy high. It’s all about balance. This Cabernet Sauvignon checks in at 13.9% ABV, which isn’t super low. In fact some folks may not say it’s low at all. But as Rubin says, it’s “in check” which makes this wine approachable and for that I’m appreciative.

This wine is super aromatic with oodles of spice on the nose, such as nutmeg, cedar and licorice. That’s not to say it’s without fruit as it offers really nice, rich blackberry and strawberry aromas. That fruit really comes to life on the palate too, where deeply concentrated ripe blackberry is the headline, along with strawberry and cassis in the background. The mouthfeel is pleasantly smooth. The acidity adds the right amount of vibrancy and freshness. It finishes long with lingering blackberry flavors and a touch of spice.

Wine: River Road, Alexander Valley Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon
Varieties: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Vintage: 2018
Alcohol: 13.9%
Rating: 88
Average price: $24.99
Disclosure: This wine was received as a media sample.