Review: Rocim Mariana White Blend

If you spend much time exploring wine, through visiting vineyards and talking with producers or even just reading about it, the topic of climate change is likely to come up… often. While some politicians and biased media sources like to question the veracity of climate change models, those who have been working in the wine industry for a while have no doubt that it’s real, it’s happening and it’s already having a profound effect. Vineyards around the world are getting hotter and hotter.

Some grape growers I’ve discussed the topic with are moving vineyards to higher elevations and planting different grape varieties better suited to the conditions climate change brings.  They are seeking grape varieties that are more drought resistant, are faster to ripen and/or have thicker skins, which can withstand more heat and sun. One of the places they look for alternative varieties is Portugal.

Portugal is already quite hot and getting hotter. But producers there have been dealing with hot temperatures for generations and grow a number of native grape varieties that perform well in hot climates. There are over 250 indigenous grape varieties grown in Portugal! That’s more varieties than I have tasted in my entire life so far — although I’m not far from that number. Some of these are varieties you’re going to begin seeing more of in the coming years, as producers around the world adjust to climate change, but you can start to try them now by shopping in the Portuguese wine section of your local wine shop.

One of my favorite wine regions in Portugal is Alentejo, pronounced ah-len-TAY-zhoo. This region is about a 90 minute drive inland from Lisbon and includes approximately 1/3 of Portugal’s land mass. It’s a hot, dry region that produces both red and white wines. Today I’m exploring a white wine blend from Herdade do Rocim.

Herdade do Rocim

Rocim is a 120 hectare estate with about 70 of those hectares planted with grape vines. Approximately 25% of the grapes they grow are white varieties. Part of their vineyards are certified organic, while another significant portion are in the process of conversion to organic.

Their Mariana white blend is made from Antão Vaz, Arinto and Alvarinho, all varieties indigenous to Portugal and all varieties that perform well in warmer climates.

Tasting Notes

This is the kind of wine you want on a hot summer day. The aromas are soft and delicate, with fragrances like honeysuckle, pear, tangerine, lychee and wet stones. On the palate it’s light, refreshing and somewhat tropical, offering lychee, pear, subtle pineapple and salty minerals. It has sufficient acidity to add freshness to the flavors. The mouthfeel is pleasant and slightly creamy. The finish is surprisingly long, with lingering tropical fruit flavors.

Wine: Rocim Mariana White Blend
Varieties: Antão Vaz, Arinto and Alvarinho
Vintage: 2020
Alcohol: 12.5%
Rating: 88
Average price: $16.00
Disclosure: This wine was received as a media sample.