Wine Travel: Rogue Valley, Oregon
Every now and then, I’ll talk with someone who spent time in Napa Valley or Sonoma back in the 1980s or 1990s. The good old days, as they say. It was a time of pioneering and excitement, when winemakers adventurously experimented in order to realize the potential of their terroir. Visiting wineries was pretty casual, like visiting a farm to pick up fresh produce. Tasting fees didn’t exist in many places — and certainly the exorbitant tasting fees charged at some places today didn’t exist. It was before the commercialization of wine travel transformed tasting rooms into a luxury experience requiring a luxury budget. In the good old days it was truly about the wine.
I’ll admit, I’m jealous of those who got to experience those days. Sure, I’ve been to Napa and Sonoma a few times over the past decade or so. But it’s different now. There are still things I love about those regions including much of the wine, but it’s not like the good old days. And for a penny pincher like me, it’s getting rather pricey out there.
What if there were a place I could go today that offered some of the same experiences as the good old days in California wine country? Or maybe even better?
I think you know where I’m going with this: Rogue Valley, Oregon. Yes, I think the good old days are happening right now in Rogue Valley wine country!
Why Rogue Valley
Why, you might ask, would I suggest things are so spectacular in the Rogue Valley wine region? Here are a few of the reasons:
- Outstanding wine: It should go without saying, but one of the most important reasons to visit wine country is to get great wine. The Rogue Valley delivers. In the Rogue Valley the main varieties are Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon for reds and Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Viognier in the whites. But it’s not limited to those varieties. There are over 70 grape varieties grown in Southern Oregon.
- Innovative wine: In addition to being delicious, some of the wines here are pretty unique. I was pleasantly surprised by the curious and experimental nature of some producers in the Rogue Valley. For example, Plaisance Ranch is the first vineyard in the US to grow Mondeuse. Troon Vineyard makes a Pét-Nat with Tannat grapes and also produces amber wines to mention just a couple of their unique wines. Hummingbird Estate makes a white Pinot Noir.
- Exceptional value: I value great values. “Cheap” is part of the name of this website, after all. The wine prices in Rogue Valley are quite reasonable and the quality-to-price ratio is exceptional! These are mostly small wineries, so you’re not going to find $10 bottles but most wineries have some offerings in the $20-something and plenty in the $30-something range. Even the most expensive wines here are a fraction of what they would be in some other regions. Tasting room fees are also very reasonable, with many offering flights in the $10-15 range (although some are more) and many wineries will waive those fees if you purchase a bottle. Want to visit wine country on a budget, this is the place to go!
- Quaintness: The wineries and tasting rooms here are quaint and have a relaxed vibe to them. It’s not over-the-top extravagance. If you like to taste wine in a nice, comfortable place with friendly, unpretentious people, that’s what you’ll find here.
- Beautiful scenery: Aside from the wine, another reason to visit wine country is it’s often in beautiful locations. The Rogue Valley is no exception to that rule. Mountains, streams, wildflowers and perfect weather all come in abundance here.
- Outdoor adventure: While I love visiting wineries, I also like doing other things when I’m in wine country. The great outdoors provides seemingly endless options in Southern Oregon. World famous Crater Lake National Park is the most obvious outdoor adventure in the region, but that’s just scratching the surface of things to do here. The density of opportunities for hiking, biking, kayaking, rafting, fishing, golf and other outdoor activities is unlike anything I’ve seen anywhere else. On warmer summer days, my approach is to do some physical outdoor activity in the morning, when it’s cool, then relax at a winery in the afternoon.
Getting to Rogue Valley
The Rogue Valley is in the south west portion of the state, just north of the California border. Applegate Valley is a sub-region within the Rogue Valley, which you might also see referenced by some of the wineries. Click the map to see a bigger version.
It’s 225 miles south of Portland, OR and 350 miles north of San Francisco. It’s a drivable destination for those who live out that way. For those of us in the middle of the U.S., like me, it’s easiest to fly there.
Medford, OR, the largest city in the Rogue Valley, has an airport where all the major airlines fly in and out. At the time I’m writing this, I can find flights to Medford for under $300 from my home in Cincinnati, OH. Not bad at all.
Recommended wineries
Here are some Rogue Valley wineries I’d recommend checking out. However, I should note that I have not had the opportunity to visit every winery in the Rogue Valley… yet. Therefore, exclusions from this list should not be construed as a knock on those wineries. As a matter of fact, I have not yet come across any wineries or wines from the Rogue Valley that I wouldn’t recommend.
I should also note that some wineries here require reservations and some are only open on the weekends. Check the details with each before planning a trip here.
Troon Vineyard
If you only visit one winery in Rogue Valley, make it Troon Vineyard. The cool factor here is off the charts, at least for a someone like me who geeks out over interesting wine stuff.
Troon is both Demeter Biodynamic Certified and Regenerative Organic Certified, both of which have been achieved since the current owners took over the vineyard in 2017. They are the first vineyard in the US to receive the Regenerative Organic certification. Although they are already biodynamic certified, they are continuing to delve deeper into biodynamic practices by adding livestock to their property and expanding their use of biodynamic preparations.
Before the transformation of this property began, the Troon team dug 80 five foot deep holes (one per acre) to document the types of soil and the health of that soil throughout the property. They used that information to plan the revitalization of the vineyard and have been replacing older, unhealthy vines as they invest in realizing the vision for this property. If you’re curious and want to learn about biodynamic farming, this is the place to do so.
Troon is equally impressive when it comes to the wine. Their philosophy is minimal intervention, believing that the best wine is produced from practices in the vineyard rather than through manipulations in the winery. As a result of this philosophy they only use native, wild yeasts in their winemaking processes. The use of oak is done with restraint here and they don’t use any new oak at all.
They have some unique, innovative offerings, such as a Piquette, which is a sparkling wine created from the second pressing of grapes. It results in a light sparkling wine that’s very approachable. Their Pét tanNat, a sparkling wine from Tannat grapes, and their Kubli Bench Amber are a couple other unique offerings. They’ve started using clay amphorae as fermenting vessels for their amber wines.
Beyond the creative, unique wines, they also make some more traditional wines and do so with mastery. Their Syrah is fabulous!
Troon Vineyard: 1475 Kubli Road, Grants Pass, Oregon
Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden
Another Applegate Valley biodynamic vineyard worth a visit is Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden. Although the head winemaker here previously worked at Troon, the focus at Cowhorn differs.
The producers at Cowhorn observed similarities in the soils and the latitude between their property and the Rhone region in Southern France. They’ve taken inspiration from this and focus on producing wines reflective of the old-world, Rhone style. The grapes grown here should certainly be familiar to those who know Rhone wines: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. Their wines are produced with minimal intervention and the results are nothing short of elegant.
You’ll find biodiversity throughout this property: Large plots of lavender; an asparagus plot from which they harvest 1,000 lbs/week when in season; and oak trees, which we were told were brought back from a lifeless state thanks to the biodynamic preps applied to them.
They have a lovely tasting room space, where you can take in the beauty of the vines while you enjoy a glass of wine.
Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden: 1665 Eastside Rd Jacksonville, Oregon
Red Lily Vineyards
If Spanish-inspired wines are more your thing, then check out Red Lily Vineyards. Or, head here if relaxing on the shores of the Applegate River with a tasty glass of wine is your thing.
I only had an opportunity to stop here briefly, but I love this place! They have a clever way to serve a wine flight, by giving you one glass and a rack of test tubes with the wines. You can walk down from the tasting room to some picnic tables along the river and relax. I’ve heard they also have bands play at the property from time to time.
I don’t know if they’d allow it, but if so I’d love to bring some fly fishing gear down there, pick up a bottle of wine and fish while enjoying some vino.
The wines they were serving when I visited were all in the $18 – 35 price range — a bargain. Try the Red Lily Rosé, it’s delicious.
Red Lily Vineyards: 11777 Hwy. 238, Jacksonville, OR
Plaisance Ranch
The good old days, when a vineyard was a farm rather than a luxury resort. That’s what you get at Plaisance Ranch, which is a vineyard, a winery, a grape vine nursery and an organic cattle ranch!
A lot of folks say they have a passion for wine, but this is what it looks like when you really have a passion for wine. Owners Joe and Suzi Ginet farmed dairy cattle on this ranch for 30 years in order to realize their dream to produce wine from this land — which was also a dream of Joe’s grandfather, Joseph, who immigrated here from France. The video below really shows what this place is all about.
Today, Plaisance produces 24 different wines, grows 42 varieties of grapes and still raises cattle for beef. The wine production facilities, barrel room and tasting room are all in old dairy farming buildings. In fact, you’ll likely be sitting alongside tractors and bales of hay as you taste wines here. Rather than a tasting room, Plaisance has a tasting barn! This is one of the most unpretentious wineries I’ve ever visited — and it’s refreshing.
Given Joe Ginet’s French heritage, they produce a number of French-inspired wines. They are even the first vineyard in the US to grow Mondeuse. They don’t, however, limit themselves to French varieties.
Plaisance Ranch: 16955 Water Gap Road, Williams, OR
Weisinger Family Vineyard
Located on the south end of Ashland, OR, Weisinger Family Vineyard couldn’t be easier to get to for those staying in Ashland.
The Weisinger family first planted vines on this property in 1978. Today they produce about 3,000 cases of wine annually from grapes grown on the property and some sourced from nearby growers. Head Winemaker, Eric Weisinger, takes a terroir-driven approach to winemaking — meaning he wants the wine to express the location where the grapes are grown.
The tasting room here is the epitome of quaint, with plenty of outdoor seating providing views of the Rogue Valley and the Siskiyou Mountains. The Tempranillo here is fantastic, as is their Mourvedre. I also enjoyed their white wines. Again, I haven’t found any wines here I wouldn’t recommend.
Weisinger Family Vineyard: 3150 Siskiyou Blvd, Ashland, OR
2 Hawk Vineyard & Winery
Another, must visit winery is 2 Hawk, whose name is derived from the hawks living on the property — of which there are several generations. It’s location, in Medford, OR, is very easy to get to.
Sustainability is a priority at 2 Hawk, as evidenced through their facilities. They have a very nice gravity-flow production facility that can support up to 10,000 cases per year, although they currently only produce about 4,500 cases. The building was designed to allow efficient cooling of the barrel room. About 75% of their power comes from solar panels on the property. Technology is used to carefully manage drip irrigation, giving the vines small amounts of water to prevent runoff and waste. Their tasting room, which is beautiful, was built with reclaimed lumber and much of the décor is also from reclaimed and repurposed materials.
One of the distinguishing facts about 2 Hawk is that they have a full time vineyard manager on site. Given the scale of most producers in the region, this is rare in the Rogue Valley.
The wine here does not disappoint. Their Viognier is super floral and delicious. If Sauvignon Blanc is more your thing, theirs has nice tropical fruit characteristic and an elegant mouthfeel thanks to extended time on the lees and the use of neutral oak during fermentation. The red wines are also good. I enjoyed their Malbec, which is fruit forward with nice spice and herbal notes. For an even bigger red, try their Tempranillo, which has a lot of depth and richness.
2 Hawk Vineyard & Winery: 2335 N. Phoenix Road, Medford, OR
Del Rio Vineyards
The largest producer in the Rogue Valley is Del Rio Vineyards, with over 200,000 vines planted in their vineyards. It’s one of the northern-most wineries in the valley and is less than a minute from Exit 43 on Interstate 5.
Along with the scale of their production, comes bargain prices for their wines. For example, their 2019 Chardonnay was only $20 and their 2020 Pinot Noir only $28.
You might be surprised to learn how much Pinot Noir is grown in this region. Many people think all the Oregon Pinot Noir is grown further north in the state, but the altitude and cooling winds from the Pacific Ocean make Rogue Valley a good region for it and Del Rio grows a significant amount.
The winemaker here, Jean-Michel Jussiaume, is originally from the Loire Valley in France and spent some time producing wine in the Finger Lakes, New York before ending up at Del Rio. He likes acidity and freshness in the wines he produces and you can see that expressed in his wines.
Del Rio Vineyards: 52 N River Road Gold Hill, OR
Foris Vineyards
Although I didn’t have an opportunity to visit Foris on my trip, they are on my list of places to go on my next trip to the Rogue Valley. Foris is one of the oldest vineyards in the region, and hands down offers the best value to be found in the region, if not all of Oregon. For example, their Rogue Valley Pinot Noir is $20 per bottle and it’s good… really good.
Located in the southwest corner of the Rogue Valley, Foris is one of the furthest vineyards from the main cities of the region but it’s worth the trip.
Even if you don’t make it there, you might consider joining their wine club, which I think is one of the best wine club deals out there. They only require a minimum of three bottles with each shipment, which is less than a lot of other wine clubs, and they ship four times each year. Given the reasonable prices on their wines and additional discounts to wine club members, this club is a bargain.
Foris Vineyards: 654 Kendall Road, Cave Junction, OR
Where to stay
Medford, Oregon
Medford is the largest city in the Rogue Valley and offers the most options for lodging and dining. It’s also centrally located, making it relatively easy to get to the wineries and other recreational activities in the region. Some wineries are within minutes and the furthest Rogue Valley wineries are within a 90 minute drive. With a population just over 80,000 it’s large enough to have the amenities you’ll need but small enough to not feel like a big, crowded city.
Browse places to stay in Medford
Ashland, Oregon
If you prefer more of small town feel, Ashland is just a few minutes south of Medford and is a very quaint little city. I stayed there at the Ashland Springs Hotel, which is a lovely hotel, listed as a Historic Hotel with the National Trust for Historic Preservation. There are plenty of dining options in Ashland as well.
Ashland is also home to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, offering live performances February through October.
Browse places to stay in Ashland
Stay at a winery
Yes, you can even stay in places right next to the vines by renting a cottage, cabin or suite at one of the local wineries. Some of these are a little more remote, so you won’t have as many convenient options for dining or other activities, but it’s very relaxing to stay at a winery and just unwind.
Here are some of the wineries that offer accommodations:
Getting around Rogue Valley
You will need ground transportation to get around the Rogue Valley. Having your own car is the most convenient way to get around. Rental cars are available at the airport, but if you don’t want to rent a car there are other options.
Uber / Lyft
You can simply use Uber or Lyft for the wineries close to town. You might be able to get one of those services to take you to some of the more remote wineries, although you might have a harder time getting them to pick you up when you’re done so I don’t recommend it.
Wine Tour Services
If you want to make it easy on yourself, let someone else do all the driving. There are a couple local services that will not only drive you to the wineries, but will plan your trip and make necessary reservations for you.
Wine Hopper Tours offers pre-planned winery trips daily with different wineries scheduled each day. They also offer private tours for two on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays.
Bravo Outings is another outfit offering both private and group tours. In addition to winery trips, they offer some outdoor adventure trips, like a trip to Crater Lake or combining whitewater rafting with a winery visit.
Disclosure: I visited the Rogue Valley on an excursion related to the 2021 Wine Media Conference.
