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Jonathan Maltus, Garagiste

Jonathan Maltus, Garagiste

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Garagistes” is a name given to a group of Bordeaux winemakers who produce wines in small batches, often in garages — hence the name. These winemakers are often producing wines designed to be consumed soon after production and not aged, being a bit less tannic and more fruit forward than what is typical of Bordeaux wine. Garagiste wines are also often pricey, due to their rarity, but that’s not the case with this one.

This wine, produced by Jonathan Maltus, came to me from my friends at Naked Wines. I’ve told the story a couple times before, but for those who don’t know Naked Wines is sort of a wine club, but with a bit of a twist. They have a number of what they call “Angels” who are like subscribers but the money they contribute funds the production of wine. Angels also get the equivalent balance in their account with Naked Wines, which they can spend to purchase wines at discounted prices. If all that doesn’t make sense and you’re curious, just visit their website for a more detailed overview.

I honestly don’t drink much Bordeaux because I’m a value hunter and often find Bordeaux wines aren’t the best value. But wines like this make me second guess that conception.

Black cherry aromas lay the foundation for the nose of this wine, layers of mushroom, allspice and chocolate aromas add complexity. On the palate it delivers a hit of fruitiness up front with flavors like black cherry, strawberry and plum, evolving to reveal black pepper and chocolate spices. While there is plenty of fruit on the palate it’s not a sweet fruit — which is a good thing, in my opinion. The mouthfeel is nice, but could have more texture. The acidity adds sufficient brightness. The tannins are noticeable but not too heavy. The finish is average in length and offers black cherry and black pepper flavors.

Wine: Jonathan Maltus, Garagiste
Varieties: Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot
Vintage: 2014
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 85
Price: $16.99 for NakedWines.com Angels, $28.99 for non-Angels
Disclosure: This wine was provided as a media sample.

REVIEW OVERVIEW
Appearance
Aromas
Complexity
Flavors
Fruit
Balance
Mouthfeel
Vibrancy/acidity
Finish
Overall impressions
Value

SUMMARY

Black cherry aromas lay the foundation for the nose of this wine, layers of mushroom, allspice and chocolate aromas add complexity. On the palate it delivers a hit of fruitiness up front with flavors like black cherry, strawberry and plum, evolving to reveal black pepper and chocolate spices. While there is plenty of fruit on the palate it's not a sweet fruit -- which is a good thing, in my opinion. The mouthfeel is nice, but could have more texture. The acidity adds sufficient brightness. The tannins are noticeable but not too heavy. The finish is average in length and offers black cherry and black pepper flavors.

4.2

Tim Lemke Tim is the founder and chief reviewer at Cheap Wine Ratings since 2007.

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